Kubota B21 Manuals
So I've been looking for a B21 for a little while now and just brought it home yesterday. Now, before we get into how happy I am, I have a few questions. It's my first tractor and I'm not sure how everything works. The machine doesn't have the owners manual (will have to pick that up). The only two issues I've found are: Hydro pedal does not center itself, meaning it will not stop moving until you manually put it to center. Could just need lubing the pivot mechanism?
Kubota B21 Tractor Illustrated Master Parts List Manual DOWNLOAD. Manual Covers: Engine Cooling Water System Electrical System Clutch Hydraulic System. Feb 3, 2010 - 3 or 4 months ago I ran across a web site that had a bunch of Kubota (possibly other brands as well, can't remember) manuals in PDF format for.
It's hard to shift into different ranges at times. There's a grinding noise and the lever is hard to move. If I clutch again, then it will usually go right in without noise or hesitation. Is this problem connected to the first?
I'm really hoping it's not a problem with the shift forks. This machines should shift without the clutch, right? I'm excited to get started using it, but want to know what's what before I jump in. Congrats on your new machine. I have had a B21 since 2000 (new) and they are a tough little TLB - I have moved a lot of rock and logs, grading etc.
I am attaching the manuals for the Loader and Bachoe in PDF here also but the tractor manual is 3.7 MB so PM me and I will email to you. To your issues - if your hydro pedal doesnt return to center I beleive there is a spring on this to return to nuetral, also grease as Bruce mentioned. This is the other reason you are having trouble shifting since the hydro pedal is engaged the swash plate on the hydro is pumping fluid causing the shifting /grinding - I would correct that right away. Some other tips (once you get the hydro pedal return working) - sometimes it doesnt like to go in gear, so depress the hydro pedal with the clutch out and release, I almost always depress the clutch when putting in mid range or changing a range so not to grind the gears, but if it still doesnt engage depress the hydro pedal a bit and it should go in. Hydro Fluids change - there are two hydro filters and one strainer and it holds 7.5 Gal SUDT so go to walmart and get two 30 or 40 quart storage containers - like $3 ea and drain the front in the tranny case then the rear plug under the rear case is another drain plug. The strainer looks hard to get at but I find its easier to remove the wheel when doing the fluids and you can access everything a lot easier.
The reason to check the strainer is if there has been a lot of gear grinding you can assess how much by looking at the strainer. Backhoe - get a thumb - I have a mecahnical one and wouldnt be without it - you can find them on ebay and around the net if you look - I have a bolt on one. Backhoe removal - pretty simple but takes some practice, park on a flat area, put the outriggers down with very little pressure, lower the boom and curl the dipper in, then remove the pins on the moving rods, then if the handles are still tight lower/raise the outriggers til they free up. I also grease these rods (fluid film) to make them easy to move. Once you have the two release pins all the way back install the retainer clips and then lift the outriggers and that should drop the top off the pins and move the hoe as well. I usually put blocks of wood under the hoe swing cylinder area.
Kubota B21 Workshop Manuals
If this process seems puzzling read the manual before you take the hoe off. Last - grease everything - and if the pins are sloppy on the loader or BH you can get replacement bushings and pins - they are easy to change. Then have fun digging holes and moving stuff - and by the way post some pics of your machine.
There is a zerk on the return spring for sure. That area needs to be clear of built-up sludge.
Volvo a25c service manual. Even so, the pedals will tend to return to center position sometimes with just a little offset, enough to make the tractor creep. A slight tap will bring them to center. If the spring falls off or needs replacing some folks use a plasma cutter to cut a square hole in the floor over the spring to gain access.
Otherwise it is a real pain, having to dismantle more than you would expect just for a spring. Shifting mine at first was tricky too but after awhile you get the hang of it. Just be sure never to shift when the tractor is on a slope, it might get away from you. I always use the clutch to shift.
If you get the lock pins (moved with the levers) to pull back, then lock them in the back position with the hairpin. Then you kinda have to fool around with the boom jiggling things to get the 'jaws' to open. I have the stabilizers down at this time too, about 1 inch off the floor. BTW, I put little plywood squares down so the concrete doesn't get dinged up since you'll be using the stabilizer to lift up the backhoe after you've lowered the back end a bit.
Kubota B21 Manual Pdf Free
Also put a piece of plywood under the bucket end. I also put a cinderblock with a 2x6 on it under the entire assembly. After I have the backhoe off, I lower it onto the cinder block so that the stabilizers and the block are helping to hold it all up. You kinda have to just play with it, and you'll what movements it takes. The first time I took it off was about 20 minutes of messing around, now I can take it off in about 3 minutes.
It's a good idea to keep the levers and jaws lubed, and take the backhoe off every year or so to be sure everything is moving OK. Note that you can just open the jaws up and then lock it back down to be sure nothing is frozen.
If you've used WD-40, go back with a thicker oil after it's all moving. You'll figure it out Pete.